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CLEANING THE PAINT - PHASE 3 - WAXING AND POLISHING
TIP: Before polishing or waxing your vehicle, trim out your rubber and vinyl areas with Mothers Preserves and Protectant. This will prevent the wax or polish from penetrating those areas and leaving a white residue.
This is where
the great debate of protecting automobile paint finishes begins.
There are basically two product categories, polymers, which are
synthetic, and waxes, which are organic. There are pros and cons
to each and die hards to support both sides.
Polymers
As a general rule, polymer based products will have substantially
longer durability than a wax product. The nod also goes to polymers
when comparing ease of use. The cost of polymers is usually slightly
higher than the cost of organic waxes. Some argue that this is offset
by the more frequent use of organic waxes. It is recommended that
polymers are removed once a year and re-applied. This is where the
debate gets very sticky. Because of the way that lower quality polymers
bond to the paint, expansion and contraction is very limited, which
can cause the paint to crack. This is where your discount specials
really don't shine. Polymer polishes are usually applied by placing
the polymer directly on an applicator, blotting together, and then
applied to the paint in a lateral motion. As with any application,
do a small area (approximately one half of hood) let dry to a slight
haze, and then buff with a clean soft cloth. Some products are buffer
friendly while others are designed to be applied by hand. Refer
to the product label for specific use.
Organic Waxes (Carnauba)
Following are some of the pros and cons of organic wax. Most major
vehicle paint manufacturers recommend carnauba wax as a primary
paint protectant. Carnauba waxes are not only recommended for American
paints, but also for Japanese and German paint products. Because
of the bonding properties of organic wax, there is no restriction
to expansion and contraction on the painted surface. Carnauba wax
will also give greater depth of shine and brilliance than a polymer
product. That's one of the reasons why 99% of custom and show car
enthusiasts use a carnauba wax. However, organic waxes do need to
be replaced more frequently than a polymer product. Organic waxes
come in various forms; sprays, liquids, and paste. Application of
carnauba wax should only be done after the vehicle is thoroughly
washed and the paint has been cleaned. I personally prefer the carnauba
paste wax to the liquid variety. The purist auto enthusiast will
apply paste wax with their bare hands. It's said that it gives a
sense of feel for any contaminants and also a better feel of the
amount that is being applied. For those who wish to use an applicator,
apply the product directly to the applicator and blot so that an
even amount is applied. This is another case where more is not better.
Applying a wax too thickly is one of the most common mistakes people
make when waxing their vehicle. The paint will only absorb so much
and the excess is just removed in the buffing process with no actual
benefit. Most waxes should be allowed to dry to a slight haze and
buffed with a 100% terry, flannel or microfiber towel. The towel
that is used should be continuously shaken out in an area away from
the vehicle. The new microfiber towels are a top choice for buffing
for several reasons; 1. Virtually lint free. 2. They are ten times
softer than silk. 3. Their fiber action literally attracts dust,
lifting it from the surface, and traps it into the towel. As with
applicators, replace your towel often during the buffing process.
After you have finished waxing and buffing, get another fresh towel
and completely buff the entire surface again. To remove wax around
hood ornaments, decals and other crevices, I use a two-inch paint
brush. I wrap the metal band of the brush with electrical tape to
prevent scratches. A nylon tooth brush or horsehair brush also works
well for those hard to reach areas.
mail@waxstation.com
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